November Kyoto Prefecture HighlightsThe Great Kyoto Countryside
Perfect destinations for maple leaf viewing!
As the air gets colder and colder in November, the autumn leaves change into the most brilliant colors, and nowhere is as attractive and colorful as the Kyoto countryside. Since ancient times, countless poets have been touched by the scenes of Kyoto and written about them. In Sei Shonagon’s Pillow Book, penned nearly 1,200 years ago, she writes that the beauty of autumn is especially strong in the late, late afternoon just as dusk begins to descend. Here are just a few places to enjoy the wonders of Kyoto.
Nagaokakyo City
Situated southwest of Kyoto City bordering Osaka Prefecture, Nagaokakyo served as the capital of Japan from 784 to 794, just before Kyoto became the capital. A number of historical sites can be seen here. The city is also famous as source of bamboo. Komyo-ji Temple: Built in 1198, the long slope that leads to the main hall of this temple is colorfully decorated with red maple leaves in autumn. Free. Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine: This shrine is the place scholar/poet Sugawara Michizane (845-903) said goodbye to Kyoto as he went into exile. The curved orange-red bridge over the wide pond here is especially attractive. Free. To get to Nagaoka Kyo City, take the JR Tokai Line (local; 10 minutes) or the Hankyu line (kyuko express; 15 minutes) to Nagaoka Tenjin.
Uji CityUji has been a centre of culture for over 1,200 years. Perfectly set along the Uji River, the area has two UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area is also known for its tea plantations and as an important setting for the Tale of Genji. Uji is easy to get to, quiet, and located near a number of excellent hiking courses. English volunteer guides are available between 9:00-17:00. Reservations required one week in advance (Tel: (0774) 22-5083). Kosho-ji Temple: The first Zen temple built by Dogen (originally in Fukakusa), this temple was rebuilt in Uji in 1648. The garden is famous for its tea ceremony and its exquisite maple leaves. Ujigami Shrine: The main hall of this shrine (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) was built at the end of the Heian period; it has the oldest shrine building in existence in Japan. To get to Uji, take the JR Nara line to Uji (kyuko express; 17 minutes) or Keihan Uji line (local; 40 minutes).
Yawata City
Located between Kyoto and Osaka, Yawata developed as a prosperous town on the river transport system between Kyoto and Osaka. Zenhoritsu-ji Temple: A famous maple viewing location since ancient times, the temple dates back to 1257. Reservations required (Tel: 981-0157). Iwashimizu Hachiman-gu Shrine: Built by the third Tokugawa shogun, Iemitsu, in 1634, this shrine is dedicated to the god of archery. The Main Hall is exquisitely decorated with animal and plants carvings. Free. Kouzuya Bridge: The longest wooden bridge in Japan (356.5 m). There are no modern buildings near the bridge and so it is often used in films. To get to Yawata town, take the Keihan line to Yawata (kyuko express; 20 minutes).
Miyama Town
Located in the central part of the prefecture, Miyama Town is home to more thatch-roofed houses than anywhere else in Japan. In November, the 900-meter hills surrounding the area are ablaze with color. The huge Ashiu National Forest, one of Japan’s last virgin forests, is also in Miyama. Ohno Dam Riverside Park: Full of maple trees, this park is the site for the annual Autumn Leaf Festival . An outdoor produce and craft market is held here every Sunday (May through December). Mint House: a treasure trove of herbs sold with various handicrafts. Craft lessons offered as well. Tel: (0771) 76-0329. Old Farmhouses: Ishida Family House (Tel: 0771-75-1831), built in 1650, is the oldest Kitayama-style house in Japan. Kobayashi House (Tel: 0771-75-1831) built in 1816, its earthen walls are amazing. Both of theses houses can be seen from the outside only. Miyama Town can be reached by JR bus from Kyoto Stn. (change at Shuzan for another local bus).
Ooe Town
Located in a remote northwestern section of the prefecture, Ooe is set in an area of high mountains. It is particularly popular for outdoor activities. And the town has an interesting and unique oni devil culture and history. Ooe Mountain: This 833-m high mountain is especially popular in autumn. At dawn, photographers come here to catch the mountains set in a sea of clouds. Oni Communication Museum: This museum is devoted to the legendary oni or devil spirit. Crafts related to oni from all over Japan are on exhibition here. Closed on Mondays. Tel: (0773) 56-1996. To get to Ooe Town, take the JR Sanin line to Fukuchiyama (superexpress; 80 minutes) and then transfer to the KTR Miyafuku line for Ooe (30 minutes).
Maizuru CitySet on the Japan Sea, Maizuru is Kyoto Prefecture’s largest port. The east side of the city is home to the navy and port facilities. The west side is more like an old castle city. The morning fish market is an excellent place to go to get fresh fish and see the local people at work. Kongo-in Temple: Built at the beginning of Heian period, this temple has a three-story pagoda and main hall all surrounded in a natural forest. The autumn scenery is especially fine. Reservations are required (Tel: (0773) 62-1180). Tane-ji Temple: This temple dates back to the Asuka period (593-710). It has the largest pair of Kongo Rikishi statues (an important cultural asset) in Japan, said to be carved by Unkei, one of Japan’s most famous sculptors. Reservations required (Tel: (0773) 68-0026). To get to Maizuru City, take the JR Sanin line to Nishi or Higashi Maizuru (direct super express; 1.4 hours).
November Festival Highlights
Nagaoka Kyo Garacia Festival: Held at Nagaoka Kyo City (southern part of Kyoto City) in memory of Hosokawa Garacia (1563-1600; daughter of the warlord Akechi Mitsuhide) She became a Christian, and eventually committed suicide because she refused to be a hostage. A big parade imitating her wedding ceremony is held as the main part of the festival. Tel: 959-1299. Ankoku-ji Temple Maple Viewing: This Ayabe City temple has 100 exquisite maple trees; tea ceremony, koto and shakuhachi performances also featured. Tel: (0773) 42-9550. Fukuchiyama Marathon: This full marathon attracts about 10,000 people every year. Tel: (0773) 24-3031.