The
wonders of south-western Kyoto PrefectureRemnants of old highways to Kyushu and stories of great visitors
Saigokukaido
The historical Saigokukaido “highway” linked Kyoto to everywhere as far west as the northern end of Kyushu Island until the end of the 19th century, when railways revolutionized transportation in Japan. The first part of the road leading out of Kyoto was called the Yamazakikaido because the area where the road leaves the Kyoto valley, in modern-day Nagaokakyo, is called Yamazaki. The road’s long history and countless travelers includes one of Japan’s most revered scholars: Sugawara Michizane (845-903). He took this road when he was exiled from Kyoto to Kyushu’s Fukuoka province by Fujiwara-no Tokihira (871-909).
The beginning of this route, leading from To-ji Temple to Nagaokakyo, is full of historical places of interest. Important places on this section of the route include the Nagaokakyo ruins, Muko Shrine, Otokuni-dera Temple, and Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine. This section of the route features carved stone signposts, sections of ancient flagstone pavement between Nagaokakyo and Mukomachi, the street named Historical Road, and old traditional houses, such as the Suda residence (a registered Kyoto Cultural Heritage Property), all of which make it easy to imagine what the highway might have been like in its heyday. On fine days you can see panoramic views from the Kuzebashi Bridge of Mount Atago all the way along the Kitayama mountains to Mount Hiei. This historical route is perfect for bicycling or walking. Access: JR line to Nagaokakyo Stn.
Nagaoka Tenmangu Shrine
This shrine is believed to have been built in memory of Sugawara Michizane by his family because he is said to have stopped here for a last look at his beloved Kyoto before departing for his exile in Fukuoka (Kyushu). Many stories of him are associated with this shrine. Gigantic stone torii (shrine gates), dedicated for the 1,100th anniversary of Sugawara Michizane’s death in 1998, soar before the shrine. On the east side of the shrine stands the beautiful Hachijoga-ike pond, famous for its various irises (which bloom during the month of May) and lotus flowers (July). The approach to the shrine divides the pond and is lined on both side by 100-to-150-year-old Kirishima azalea bushes, prized for their crimson blossoms at the end of April to early May. Access: JR line to Nagaokakyo Stn.; from the station walk 15 minutes west. Tel: 075-951-1025.
Otokuni-dera Temple
This temple has very strong connections with the Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi (Great Teacher) and is also known for its roughly 2,000 exceptional botan (peony) flowers (from the end of April to mid May). Kobo Daishi is said to have met Saicho (another Great Teacher) for this first time at this temple at the end of the 8th century. Their meeting is said to have lead to the development of Japanese esoteric Buddhism. Another famous historical figure, Sawara Shinno (750-785), who was connected with the assassination of Fujiwara Tanetsugu (737-785) during the brief time Nagaoka was the capital of Japan (after Nara and before Kyoto), was confined at this temple. Open: 7:00-18:00. . Access: Hankyu line to Nagaokatenjin Stn.; then a Hankyu bus to Yakushido. Tel: 075-951-5759.