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Kyoto Prefecture Autumn Highlights
Ancient rituals & spectacular colors


This month, experience one of Kyoto Prefecture’s liveliest local rituals, or see some of Japan’s finest temples surrounded in exquisite red and yellow leaves.

Tayama Hanaodori Dance

The Tayama Hanaodori dance is a very local ritual organized by the people of the Tayama area, a part of Minami-yamashiro Village. This village is located at the southern end of the prefecture and three quarters of the area is covered by mountains and forest, with the Kizu River running through it. It has some of the richest mountain scenery in Kyoto Prefecture.
Every year on November 3rd, a special ritual, including the Tayama Hanaodori dance, is held at Suwa Shrine. The first written record of the ritual dates back to 1773. However, many historians, based on the movements of the dance and the words in the songs, believe the dance is much older. The purpose of the dance is to ask for rain, since much of the area is on a plateau and often did not receive enough rain for growing crops. The dance ritual was not practiced from about 1925 to 1963, but was resurrected again in 1963.
On the day of the dance the local people first gather at an elementary school and perform the first half of the dance. Then, around 13:00, a procession proceeds to the shrine accompanied by an ancient triton and the sounds of drums. The procession is divided into different groups, each with a different role. Some wear samurai costumes and act as protectors of the procession. Others wear the traditional clothing of yamabushi (monks who train hard in wild mountainous areas). There are also small groups of children in colorful kimono. One of the most interesting sub-groups is the group of utazuke singers, wearing black kimono with a unique hat which has flowers on it and a white cloth around the brim to hide the singers faces. The front of the hat has a gold blind. When the procession reaches Suwa Shrine, the rest of the dances are performed one by one. Old, young, and children participate the ritual and enjoy it.
To get to Suwa Shrine, take the Nara line from JR Kyoto to Kizu Stn. (about 40min.) and then change train to the Kansai-honsen line and take it to Tsukigase-guchi Stn. (25min.). From there take a Mie Kotsu Bus to Miyano-mae Stop (10 min.), or walk from the station for about 50 min. Note: only a few buses run every day; the town also has a few taxis.


Kyoto Prefecture Autumn Beauty Spots
Ankoku-ji Temple in Ayabe City
This temple was built around 993 and has many important cultural properties (statues and hanging scrolls). It is the birth place of the first Muromachi Shogun, Ashikaga Takauji (1305-1358). It is especially wonderful in autumn, when its more than 500 maple trees turn bright red. Entry is free. To get there take the JR Sagano Line to Sonobe Stn. (40 min), and then change trains and take one bound for Ayabe Stn (1 hour), then take a Kyoto Kotsu Bus to Ankoku-ji (about 15 min.). The temple is 5-min walk from the bus stop. Note: JR trin pass holders can take an express train from Kyoto Stn. to Ayabe Stn. without changing at Sonobe Stn. (about 1 hour).
Komyo-ji Temple in Nagaokakyo City
In November, graceful colored maple trees line both side of the stairs that lead to this famous temple. It is like entering a different world. On the 25th, countless candles are lit and put in the bamboo and wonderfully illuminate around the temple (from 17:00-20:00). On the 21st & 22nd, the Momiji Matsuri (Autumn Leaf Festival) is held: ¥500 for entry during 11/6-12/5. To get there take the JR Kyoto Line to Nagaokakyo Stn. (5 min) and then take Hankyu Bus #20 or #22 to Komyo-ji (about 20 min).
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